Izzy Travel Notes

Banda Neira & Banda Besar, from the top of Gunung Api…

The sun had just risen from the eastern horizon and we had just finished our breakfast onboard the KM Ciremai that departed from Ambon last night, when the Banda archipelago which was our destination on this trip was visible on the horizon. Half past seven in the morning, KM Ciremai already docked at Banda Neira. We’re here, we have reached Banda Neira..!

The activities onboard KM Ciremai soon increased. The porters were walking back and and forth – or rather running – in the corridors and the decks scrambling around offering service to carry the passenger’s luggage off board the ship. It didn’t take long, the passengers and porters filled the corridor along the exit lane and got off the ship. Suitcase? That’s nothing. Some of them brought along queen-sized spring bed, small cabinets, washing machine, even a two-door refrigerator 😀 Meanwhile, the ten of us also started conveying our luggage. Erika, Ihsan & Hadi were waiting at the dock, checking and counting the luggage that have been conveyed down to the dock by the porters. After all were counted, complete, and placed on the handwagon, we all walked to the hotel. Yes, we walked. Maulana hotel, where we would be staying in this trip, is only less than 5 minutes walk away from the harbor…

Loading and unloading at the Port of Banda…

Maulana Hotel is the hotel which was founded by (late) Des Alwi, a historical figure of Banda who was the disciple of Hatta and Sjahrir, two of Indonesia’a founding fathers, when they were exiled to the island by the Dutch colonial government in 1936. After Des Alwi passed away in 2010, his family managed the hotel, while the dive center is currently managed by Dive BlueMotion which is also actively campaigning for the conservation of marine resources and diversity in Banda. The hotel’s location is right next to the port of Banda in Banda Neira, the main island of the archipelago that is consisting of 11 islands, making it the most recommended accommodation recommended by travelers who have visited these islands.

After checking in and enjoying Banda-style breakfast – yellow rice with side dishes plus cinnamon tea & walnut cake – Tuta & Micha from Dive BlueMotion met with us to conduct briefing on the dive plan for the next four days. Soekarno Wall and Banana Island were the choice for the first day dive. Meanwhile, our non-diver comrades – Ela & Ihsan – had made up their own plan for the first day, to visit several locations in Banda Neira…

Banda archipelago is not only about the diversity and beautiful underwater scenery. In addition to the fame for the spices such as nutmeg and cinnamon, Banda Neira has many old buildings that were built during the Dutch colonization period which are well-preserved until now, such as the Mini Palace that was once the residence of Governor-General JP Coen, an old church built in 1852 and still in use today, and Fort Belgica – which was first built by the VOC in 1611 – still proudly standing on the hilltop of Banda Neira. Also not to be missed to visit certainly is the historic landmarks such as Hatta and Sjahrir exile houses, where they lived at the time they were exiled by the Dutch colonial government in 1936.

Hatta Exile House at Banda Neira…

When we returned to Banda Neira after the first day dives, Ela & Ihsan were already surrounded by the Banda Neira kids. They were indeed free going in and out of the hotel area where we were staying, which was just like another playground for them. Ayu and her friends were also cheerfully escorting us when we visited Fort Belgica later in the afternoon. Well-maintained old buildings virtually everywhere along the way to the fort which is situated on a hill, made ​​me flying back through space and time back to the days where VOC was still operating in Banda Neira to trade & collect spices which were highly valued in Europe…

Back then, Banda archipelago was very famous for its spices, such as nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon. European nations struggled for influence in this area to be able to get those high-valued commodities to be traded back in their homeland. Nations with strong fleets at the time, such as Portuguese, English and the Dutch. The latter two nations then engaged in the Treaty of Breda in 1667, where the British surrendered Surinam and Pulau Run – one of the islands in the Banda archipelago – to the Dutch, which in return surrendered Manhattan – formerly called New Amsterdam, New Jersey and Delaware – all in the US – to the British. Thus, the Dutch gained complete control of the Banda archipelago and the commodities it produced.

The Fort Belgica, with Gunung Api at the background…

Entering the courtyard of Fort Belgica, its massive figure looks as if trying to remind anyone visiting to what purpose it is standing there. The fort is practically still solid and intact, looks pretty much similar with what old pictures depicting how the fort looked like back then. On the other hand, the formerly built Fort Nassau – located right in front of the Belgica – is leaving only a line of stone wall. Staring at the thick fortress walls, my imagination was drifted back to the late 17th century where the fort was a stronghold of the VOC in maintaining its hegemony over the spices-rich archipelago from other colonial countries’ attack, especially in the period where the British was still in control of Pulau Ai and Pulau Run which are also part of the Banda archipelago. Standing at the top of the tower in one of the fort corners offers you the view of Banda islands panorama, ranging from Sjahrir Island, Lonthor (Banda Besar), and Gunung Api which towers in front of you with its cloud-covered peak…

The massive & strong Fort Belgica seems that it will still stand sturdy for more years ahead. Likewise is my hope for Banda Neira, that its natural beauty, the harmony and hospitality of its sincere people will last forever…

Additional Notes:

• Photos from Banda trip are stored at http://www.ismawanismail.com/gallery/index.php?/category/banda
• To reach Banda, the easiest way is through Ambon. There are several airlines serve the Ambon route, we used Garuda Indonesia. Check the details at http://www.garuda-indonesia.com
• From Ambon, we can reach Banda through air or sea transport. Air transport (chartered flight) will really depend on the weather & the flight could be cancelled due to bad weather. Sea transport is more reliable, check the details at http://www.pelni.co.id
• For diving & accommodation at Banda, the best way is to contact the dive operator that served us during our trip, Dive Bluemotion. Check the details at http://www.dive-bluemotion.com